Klassz = cool. At least that's the only proper translation I could come up with at this moment. But it's also what the memories of that dinner evokes...cool.

Oh yes, I had to experience it myself! I've been hearing a lot of rumours about how you could or couldn't reserve a table only through people who are ex-regulars of Menza and friends of the guy who used to work there and then one day decided to take over the struggling Vörös és Fehér. I also heard stories about the fact that the food was great value for money but that it was "strangely spiced" and for grown up tastebuds (ie. not as accessible in taste as Menza). I also heard it was half ready, not even open or under some kind of trial period.

All the rumours proved to be true. We couldn' t reserve a table by phone, but I happened to be speaking to a friend of mine on the phone one evening and since he was sitting in the restaurant, I decided to act on it and ask him to reserve a spot for us next evening. He seemed to be 'in the know' so he told me everything was organised and the table reserved. Oh Joy. We went there on a Wednesday evening and the place was full and happening with loads of tourists trying to esure tables for later hours but getting politely rejected by the staff. A fact that I didn't really understand as the rotation of tables would have allowed more people to sit, but somehow it seemed like they were only going for the 8 o'clock crowd and weren't interested in anyone else after that.

The place is half ready as the rumours said: the beautiful curvy bar dissapeared completely from Vörös és Fehér and so did the gallery on top - instead it gives room for a kind of see-through kitchen window... a sort of open kitchen if you wish but only allowing occasional peeks to guests on what's going on inside. Instead of the wooden bar, the makeshift bar is now made of Bortársaság boxes piled on top of eachother. It might be conceptual, but still a bit strange nevertheless. The wires hanging out from the walls and the missing name on the portal cannot be conceptual, though. The decor is retro chic with bold floral motifs on the wall as the current style dictates and it gives a cozy feeling to the place. The lighting takes away some of that coziness as there are harsh spotlights pointed at guests from the feeling, which makes the place extremely light and attractive from the street, but more like a sauna for the people sitting inside.

We start of with some amazong home baked bread and some mediocre butter to go with it, but still its a nice gesture from the house. The menu is still under construction and we receive a computer printed A4 sheet with the offers. I love to see the whole menu fit on a piece of paper, it makes the whole thing so much more easy! The same goes for the wine list - a special selection of wines printed on the same A4 sheet and not the Big Book of mediocre wines with pictures to go along that you find in most places.

For our starters we order a buffalo mozzarella caprese with tomatoes and some fresh spinach. Fresh and delicious, exectly as it is supposed to be. We accompany the starters with a Tricollis Cuvee from Pannonhalma, one of my favourite whites this season. Interestingly enough all the glasses come from the elite glass-maker Riedel, even the waterglasses - they are super thin and very stylish. Style if obviously one of the main concerns of the owners as they only serve the supers stylish Römerquelle mineral water - the design of the bottle unique and cool as it gets.

For the main course I taste one of the most fantastic duck livers I've ever had - cooked to perfection - with a very tasty sage and parmesan risotto on the side. The strong taste of the liver is well balanced by the smooth creamy risotto.

The dessert was forgettable, but the value for money that this place provides is not. It's simply dirt cheap and at 3000 fts and head including wine you've got to be very fast on your feet to get there early before they realise they could be charging at least double for this type of dinner. Maybe they know already....

Klassz étterem

Andrássy ut (next to Divatcsarnok)

No website - no reservations

Overall: 7,5/10

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