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F*CK CAVIAR AND LONG LIVE SHROOMS

Berlin has never felt like a natural home for fine dining. Some its iconic restaurants are closing, with the owners saying that business is tough. It’s a city that moves to its own rhythm — one where street food often outshines white tablecloths, where a 6 euro, late-night döner can feel more authentic than a 60 euro tasting menu, and where neighbourhoods like Kreuzberg carry a kind of restless, anarchic energy that doesn’t immediately invite formality. Over the years, that energy has shifted. In parts, it feels rougher, less polished, worn at the edges. And yet, along the canal in Kreuzberg — surrounded by bars, small restaurants, and that familiar Berlin mix of grit and charm — sits  Horváth , calm and self-contained, quietly resisting everything around it. We came here on invitation, ahead of their upcoming residency at Salt in Budapest (April 14-19), curious to understand what exactly they would bring with them.  A Change in Direction Chef  Sebastian Frank  did n...

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